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Post by LhYnxz on Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:36 pm

Troubleshooting Guide:Symptom: Items to Check
Rough Running At Idle: MAF, Ignition Coil, Spark Plug, VAC Leak, O2 Sensor, TB, CTS
Missfires under Boost Flashing CEL: Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs
Running Rich: Boost Leak, MAF, O2 Sensor, Coolant Temp Sensor
Running Lean: VAC Leak, MAF, O2 Sensor, Fuel Filter
Low Boost: Limp Mode, MBC, BOV, DV, Boost Leak, N75,
High Boost: MBC Setting, N75, Spark Plugs, Ignition Coils
Cold Start Problems: MAF, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump Relay, CTS
Poor Gas Mileage: MAF, CTS, O2 Sensor, AIT Sensor
Cat Efficiency Below Threshold: Down pipe, CAT, Rear O2, RACE FUEL
No Start: Battery - ECU, Fuel Pump Relay, Ground
Start For 1 Second Stall: Immobilizer
Overheating: Waterpump, Thermostat, Head Gasket
oil in coolant: Oil Cooler, head Gasket, Water Wetter
Dies While Driving: Timing belt, Boost Leak, MISC
Shorts To ground CEL: Fuel Pump Relay, Bad Grounds
Oil in your IC/IC piping: Check your PCV system

1.8t Engine CodesHow to find your Engine Code:
Location on Head, Location on Block
shows location of code on head. Picture is of a transverse motor but
the tab is in the same physical location of the block in a longitudinal
*Note: There are a few cases where no stamp will exist on the
head. The first are the 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition vehicles which
were not stamped from the factory. The other case would be if the head
was replaced as a result of some kind of engine mechanical failure (ie
Timing belt with valve damage).US Market Volkswagen
2000 Golf/Jetta: AWD
2001 Golf/Jetta: AWW
2002+ Golf/Jetta: AWP1997-1999 Passat: AEB
1999-2001 Passat: ATW
2001 Passat: AUG/AWM
2002-2004 Passat: AMB 1999-2000 Beetle: APH
2001+ Beetle: AWV
2002 Beetle Turbo S: AWPUS Market Audi
1997-1999 A4: AEB
2000 A4: ATW
2001 A4: AWM
2002 A4: AMB2000-2001 TT 180hp: ATC,AJQ,APX,APP,ARY,AUQ
2001-2004 TT 180hp: AWP
2001-2002 TT 225hp: AMU,BAM
2003-2004 TT 225hp: BEA
VW/Audi Engine Info

-058 Block: external water pump
-06A Block: internal water pump
-Displacement: 1.8L (1781cc)
-Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
-Cylinder #1 is next to the timing belt
-All catbacks are 2.17"
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (4.35L)
-Head bolt size: 11mm AEB, 10mm all others
-Engine Mount Assembly/Mounting Info
    Engine dimensions for OE engines:
  • Bore size - 81mm (3.19in)
  • Stroke - 86.4mm (3.40in)
  • Rod Length - 144mm
Volkswagen Engine Info
Engine Code: AWD
Model Years: 2000 (11/99 on)
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150hp @ 5700RPM
Torque: 155ft. lbs.@ 1750RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.5
DP Size: 55mm (2.17")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)Engine Code: APH
Model Years: 2000
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150hp @ 5500RPM
Torque: 155ft. lbs.@ 1950RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.5
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)Engine Code: AWW/AWV
Model Years: 2001 (07/00 on)
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150hp @ 5700RPM
Torque: 162ft. lbs.@ 1950RPM
ECU: Motronic ME 7.5
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)Engine Code: AWP
Model Years: 2002+ (06/01 on)
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 180hp @ 5500RPM
Torque: 174ft. lbs.@ 1950RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.5
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .8 Bar (11.6psi)Audi Engine Info
Engine Code: AEB,ATW,AUG
Model Years: 1997-2000
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150 @ 5700 RPM
Torque: 155 ft. lbs.@ 1750 RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)Engine Code: AWM
Model Years: 2001-2005
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 ft. lbs. @ 1950 RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)
Head Differences between Engine Codes

* Size of intake/exhaust ports
* Use of tensioners (VVT or non-VVT)
* Valve covers
* Camshaft gear (06A vs 058)
Crank Info
    1.8T crankshaft guide - Thanks Bobq
  • 058 Old Style
    in the 058 external waterpump blocks only in longitudinal cars.(A4,
    Passat) These all have the “short”, small diameter snout. These cranks
    are all cast, and come with a toothed 60-2 wheel. There are 2 versions–
    the difference being the spigot on flywheel end.

    • Manual These have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
    • Automatic- This has a much flatter protrusion on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.

  • 06A New Style
    came in all 06A blocks with internal waterpump, both longitudinal and
    transverse. (Some codes AWD, AWW, AWP, AMB, AMU, AWM) These all have
    the “long”, large diameter snout. These cranks are cast or forged, and
    come with a windowed 60-2 wheel. There are 3 versions

    • Transverse
      manual/automatic- These are all forged and have provision for a pilot
      bearing to be pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end, but
      no bearing is installed.
    • Longitudinal manual- These are all cast and have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
    • Longitudinal
      automatic- These are all cast and have a much flatter spigot on the
      flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.

  • Notes:

    • 058 and 06A cranks are not interchangeable- they must match the block.
    • Transverse applications can use any of the above listed cranks.
    • Longitudinal
      manual applications can use the transverse forged crank with the
      installation of a pilot bearing. They may also use the longitudinal
      automatic crank if an adapter is machined to accept the pilot bearing.
    • Longitudinal
      automatic applications can use the transverse forged crank, or
      longitudinal manual crank if the spigot on the flywheel is machined
      down to clear the torque converter.
    • Trigger wheels are physically interchangeable, but early "bar" style sensors can only go in early blocks.
    • The early toothed wheel is better for SEM applications

  • Cast Cranks


  • Forged Cranks



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Post by LhYnxz on Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:36 pm

1.8t Acronyms/LingoAIT
– Sensor – This is a small sensor located in the intake manifold just
after the throttle body. It is responsible for monitoring the intake
temperature. It can get coated with oil, and can affect gas mileage,
and a loss of power. It is common to remove it and clean it with
alcohol, or electronics cleaner.Boost Leak – View Block
032 with VAG Com. If Fuel Trims are Negative more than 5% in the load
range there is a very good chance that there is a leak after the turbo.
Visual inspection of clamps, hoses for a loose connection is the best
way to look for leaks. A common place for leaks is at the entrance to
the pancake pipe located in the passenger side fender. Also the small
line on the DV can rip.
Fuel Trim Details Here - http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....htmlCAI - Cold air intakeCTS
– Coolant Temp Sensor – This part is prone to failure. 2002 and older
vehicles had a bad coolant temp sensor from the factory that VW
updated. It was a black sensor, and now the good one is referred to as
a green top coolant temp sensor. Block 011 in the VAG COM can monitor
coolant temp for erratic readings. This is a 7$ part. Do not change
while engine is hot.Diode - What does the Diode Mod do?
MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is what reads how much actual
boost you are making It sends that signal to the ECU (engine control
unit). Once the data that the MAP has collected has been sent to the
ECU, it then compares it to the specified boost that the car is
supposed to be making (this is one parameter a chip modifies among many
others). If the ACTUAL boost is over the SPECIFIED boost then the ECU
puts the car into LIMP MODE. This is an attempt to stop you from
damaging the turbo or anything else.The DIODE(s) is connected to
the correct wire(s) in the MAP sensor wiring harness. The MAP sensor
sends signal to the ECU is voltage increments (so for 10PSI there is a
corresponding voltage that is sent to the ECU when the MAP is reading
10 PSI).The MAP sends 4.7 volts to the ECU when it’s reading 17
PSI and 4.3 volts when it’s reading 11 PSI. Once the diode(s)
(whichever size you chose) is connected to the correct wire(s), the MAP
sensor continues to read the actual boost that the turbo is producing
and sends the voltage signals to the ECU corresponding to the amount of
(For example...if you have the 4.7v diode in the MAP will send the
voltage signal to the ECU up until its sending 4.7v...once it hits 4.7
volts it will keep sending 4.7 volts instead of sending the ACTUAL
voltage for the ACTUAL amount of boost the sensor is reading which
would be greater then 4.7 voltages, which would ordinarily without a
diode installed, send the ECU into limp mode).Therefore, it
"tricks" the ECU into thinking it is only making 17PSI (because that is
what the 4.7 volt diode clamps the MAP sensor at) instead of seeing
what the turbo is actually making. Since the ECU is receiving signal
from the MAP sensor showing that the turbo is only making 17 PSI (with
the 4.7v diode in), which is what the specified boost is for a chipped
run as much boost as you want without hitting limp mode!
-courteousy Spooled_AWP
    Quick run down:
  • 4.3v diode will clamp at 11psi
  • 4.7v diode will clamp at 17psi
  • 5.1v diode will clamp at nothing as its over 5v

Diode is said not to work on the 20ths
DV - Diverter ValveECU
– The ECU is responsible for nearly all functions on the car. If the
ECU is suspected as a bad part, you need to use a scan tool such as a
VAG com to attempt to communicate with the ECU. If you can’t
communicate with the ECU, then the ECU needs replacement. Check all
electrical connections. Check your Fuses for blown fuses. Whatever
killed the ECU might kill the new one.
ECU removal procedure - http://www.goapr.com/VW/suppor...a.pdfIC - IntercoolerImmobilizer (ECU Swapping Info)
All vehicles equipped with an immobilizer by 2002. Only exception is that some TTs in 00 had an immobilizer.
All vehicles equipped with an immobilizer in 2000.The
immobilizers is a theft prevention measure. If you swap an ECU without
matching up the ECU and the cluster, it will start briefly and then die
repeatedly flashing the immobilizer light on the dash (looks like a car
outline with the base a key). There are 2 kinds of immobilizer. Immo II
used on pre 2002, and Immo III used on 2002+. Immobilizer and ECU info
can be found on the VAG COM Site.
swapping an engine into a car without an immobilizer/cluster, you can
get software for swaps from many chip tuners that remove the
immobilizer from the ECU.Ignition Coils – These are
famous parts for the 1.8T they are very prone to failure. VW has had a
recall on these because they were failing rapidly on 2001+ cars. To
check for bad coils the best way is with a VAG COM. Log Blocks 015, and
016. This will be a misfire counter. Drive the car or let it run, and
look for misfires. If you have a bad coil you will see the counter
increase on a cylinder. If you have one counting up then it’s probably
a bad coil. Turn off engine and take that coil out and swap it with
another coil. The cylinders read left to right 1,2,3,4 when looking at
the engine from the front. Use the VAG again to see if the misfires
have also swapped to another cylinder. If it moved, then you have a bad
coil. Replace it. If they do not move, then you likely have a plug
problem. On some cars the ignition coils have problems and they will
pop up out of the cylinder head and lose contact with the plug. Plugs
should be torqued to 22 ft-lbs when changed.
    Two Coil Versions:
  • 3pin (Found on AEB motors, and others of that era) - require external igniter
  • 4pin (Found on all recent motors 2000+) - ignitor is built into the coil itself
Limp Mode
– These cars are designed to protect themselves from engine damage. If
the engine boosts too much, or the engine does not get enough fuel it
will go into a limp mode where boost is limited to protect the engine.
It limits boost by controlling a solenoid on the wastegate line (N75),
by closing the electronic throttle or by opening the DV valve. If you
are experiencing a limp mode the best thing to do is get the car
scanned for codes and to see what is wrong. Look at fuel trims for
signs of running lean, and to look for MAF problems, or O2 sensor
problems. To look for potential boost problems log Block 115 and you
can see the specified Vs actual boost. If you exceed the specified then
there is a good chance that you will go into this limp mode. Stock
specified is a max of 14 psi for a 2002+ car.MAP - The
MAP sensor is located in the OE SMIC end tank. There are two different
sized MAP sensors, and VW didn't make the transition based on years but
cars from all years might have either the small or large version (rumor
has it the small version didn't come around till ~2003). When your
upgrading your intercooler to a larger SMIC or FMIC and need to specify
which MAP sensor your car is running the only fool proof way to check
which sensor your car has. If you are making custom piping and need a
MAP sensor flange check out 42nd Draft Design for a universal solution.
Rule of Thumb appears to be:
2002 and earlier cars = large MAP
2003 and later cars = small or large MAPMAF - Click here to check if your MAF is bad.
Mass air flow meter is used to measure the air going into the engine.
It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical
tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to
the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF
can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if
it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be
cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics
cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car
with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will
get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the
size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air
mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second.
With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to
170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can
indicate a problem. More details here http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html
if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the
MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling.
If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline
tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be
miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings
on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).
MBC – Manual Boost Controller. Often
people want more boost from their car, and use a MBC. While MBC’s can
get you more boost they will cause a jerky part throttle driving, and
can cause over boost, often put the car into a limp mode. The way a MBC
works is by bleeding off air from the wastegate control line. A
wastegate is a mechanical flapper valve in the turbocharger that opens
to allow exhaust gas to sneak around the turbo. By bleeding off air
from the line, the wastegate opens less, more exhaust goes through the
turbo, and you get more boost.
Great details on MBC here - http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/1.8T-DBW.html
And general Turbo/Wastegate details here http://www.streetracersonline....e.phpN75
– The N75 is an electronic solenoid valve that the ECU uses to control
boost. It is located in the intake hose near the back right side of the
engine. It has 3 connections.
1. Connects to charge pipe = pressure source
2. Connects to wastegate actuator
3. Connects to intake hose – bleed line.
ecu will pulse this valve at a high frequency to bleed air off from the
wastegate line. It does this based on throttle position and engine
load. If the valve, or any of the liens connected to it have leaks then
there can be severe boost regulation problems. It’s function is similar
to the MBC above. To get more boost people often swap in different N75
valves. These different valves simply have a different response
characteristic, and will act different when given the same signal by
the ecu. They can get more boost, less boost, or even a big boost spike
by swapping N75’s.PCV - Positive Crankcase VentilationTB
– The throttle on these cars is drive by wire, it is an electronic
throttle with a wire attached. Most common TB problem just requires
adaptation, or cleaning out with carb cleaner. This procedure shows how
to do a TBA. TBA can improve idle, and part throttle operation. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html.
To clean the TB remove it, and spray inside with carb cleaner. Wipe out
the residue that gets built up in there. NEVER port a TB on a 1.8T it
won’t idle properly.TIP - Turbo inlet pipe
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